25A is not a “normal” consumer socket outlet thou they do exist, I feel unlikely to meet the DIY enthusiast hobbyist market, as such unlikely to exist. Thou may be wrong hopefully the forum will add also.
So I’d like to know whatever your doing will it be hardwired, on a dedicated circuit back to the switch board?
“Example”: A Standard 32A oven circuit on a 6mm2 Double insulated TPS cable dedicated circuit (Common in most Aussie homes). So if you look in your switch board you’ll see it has its own circuit breaker & cable goes direct to the oven.
For Electrical automation control: Have a 3 phase 32-40A contactor installed on the din rail at the switchboard as you need to break the neutral in addition to the active on an automation-controlled device, well maybe that depends on your local electrical laws. Up to the sparky but I would.
6mm2 D-TPS goes from the MainSwitch/Main Isolator thou a 32A Circuit breaker (Thermal Overload protection) then thou the Contactor L1-T1 (Active) & L3-T3 (Neutral) then to appliance. So now it has a cable with a control device (Contactor)
Then for the control side of the circuit:
Use a rated relay, (Rated to the coil on the contactor) You’ll be able to have a relay like Jonathans system to pull the contact on and your choice of control device (Arduino works here)
Then for the Amp meter, I’d use a non-invasive AC current sensor (Link below) then plug that into the Arduino.
Then do the maths to get the watts from the amp meter
Power factor (assumed) .9
W=VI/pf W=22025*.9 = 4950W
Hope this helps
Non-invasive AC Current Sensor (CT Sensor)
Links to how to use the sensor with the CT Sensor